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Riding the Northern Explorer or How to Run a Passenger Railroad.

Summary:
I spent much time over my 50 years working in foreign countries. I needed something to do so I would sight see on weekends and in the early evenings. The Germans gave me a car so I would take off to visit castles, etc. Ended up in Czech Republic, off to Prague on a Sunday. The Germans paid for my gasoline and meals as they sent me to those countries. Cut over to Strausberg France, Zurich. The same in China, Thailand, Philippines, Malaysia. I did work my butt off and I took time off as compensation of not being home. The following post is about Llyod traveling by train in New Zealand. Riding the Northern Explorer: This is how to run a railroad by Lloyd Alter Carbon Upfront! So I am in New Zealand, writing this in the last few

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I spent much time over my 50 years working in foreign countries. I needed something to do so I would sight see on weekends and in the early evenings. The Germans gave me a car so I would take off to visit castles, etc. Ended up in Czech Republic, off to Prague on a Sunday. The Germans paid for my gasoline and meals as they sent me to those countries. Cut over to Strausberg France, Zurich.

The same in China, Thailand, Philippines, Malaysia.

I did work my butt off and I took time off as compensation of not being home. The following post is about Llyod traveling by train in New Zealand.

Riding the Northern Explorer: This is how to run a railroad

by Lloyd Alter

But they are beautiful and comfortable carriages, designed by Kiwi Rail engineers and built in Dunedin, with air bag suspension, retro wood detailing, comfortable seats with USB-A power (no line voltage power or USC-C, bring the right cables!) and with TV monitors with a map hanging from the ceiling. When you hear a ping, it means you should put on your headphones and listen to the wonderful commentary, tied by GPS to the passing scene.

It took 34 years to build this line. Six times as long as it took to build Canada’s transcontinental line, which frankly covered worse terrain in the Rocky Mountains. I suppose it was a matter of political will. In Canada, the rail line was a moon shot that was needed to tie the country together, Whereas New Zealand was mostly developed by the British settlers in coastal communities connected by ship. And then there were the Māori, who ruled the interior of the island. The interior was also almost impenetrable rainforest, so wet that roads were muddy bogs and rail construction slow and tedious. It was a commercial venture. This rail line was built to extract the coal and timber from the interior and import settlers that would displace the Māori.

In many ways I found it profoundly depressing The forests were cleared away with saws and fire, so that now you have mainly rolling hills covered with cows and sheep as far as you can see. The rainforest that might have been a big part of the lungs of the planet were cleared to produce meat and dairy (25 million sheep and 6 million cows) and methane. It’s basically 150 years of climate disaster.

But as a Canadian who has witnessed the deterioration of our passenger rail system, the experience is very impressive.

The tracks are well-maintained, and the air bag suspension reduces vibration so it is a smoother ride than you get in Canada. There is a wonderful open outdoor viewing car at the front of the train where I spent a lot of time taking my usual terrible photos.

The staff are incredibly charming, and deliver your order to your seat on a silver tray. Reader Bob recommended that I order “railway pie” but this was not in stock; I had a beef pie instead and it was delicious. Staff come through the car regularly to pick up waste so the car is always clean.

It’s eleven hours from Auckland to Welligton. Some might wonder why one would give up a day of your trip to spend on a train. I believe that I really got a sense of the country on my first full day here, going from coast to highlands to volcanoes to the dramatic ride along the ocean into Wellington.

I saw more sheep and cows than I could imagine existed. I passed abandoned mining and lumbering communities, learned about battles between the Māori and the settlers, and believe I got a sense of what this country is. I loved every minute of it.

I thought I would spend most of the time practicing and refining my speech. But, I never opened my computer, glued to the window or hanging out on the outdoor car. It was a glorious ride.

We could do this in Canada or the USA for sure. The distances are greater. It just means more time to learn about and connect with the country. I was surprised that only a small percentage of passengers used the provided headphones and listened to the travelogue; it was brilliant, covering history, engineering, red meat for the train buffs, geology, and botany. Bring whoever produced this to Canada. It made the trip fly by.

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